- Press as you sew.
What a lot of patterns seem to miss in their instructions is that to get those crisp edges and seams, you cannot beat pressing as you stitch!Press the seam flat initially, exactly as you would a seam. By blending the stitching and pressing, you can ensure that the material is flush with the stitch. Next, push the seam open from both the inside and outside of the garment. This will flatten the seam, thereby becoming less obvious. If your pattern specifies it, push the seam to one side after that.
- Use the right needle (and always have spares)
Did you know that there are dozens of types of needles? Not just sizes, but types; each of which is designed to work on and aid you in stitching a type of fabric/application. Of equal importance to finding the right needle, is ensuring that the needle is “fresh”; or in other words, has been stitching for less than 8 sewing hours.Consider sewing an after-five gown in silk after sewing the denim jacket. These two different types of fabric require different kinds of needles.
Therefore, to ensure that you have the right needle at all times, it is recommended that you keep a couple of spare packets of needles on hand. Whether you are using a standard Sharp/Universal needle, a Microtex, jersey, topstitching, or twin, having the right needle means more time stitching and less time unpicking.
- Pay attention to the “direction” of the material.
Whatever kind of fabric you are working with—cotton or knit—it all has a “direction.” When cutting out your patterns, you should pay particular attention to the grainline. One direction typically has a longer stretch than the other. And if you don’t cut your pattern right, it can be too tight or, worse, impossible to slip over your head! I can’t tell you how many times I had sleeves that were too tight because I neglected to focus on this crucial element. Therefore, before cutting, determine the grainline and stretch of your fabric. Don’t try to use a straight stitch while sewing knits; this goes hand in hand with that advice. - Match your thread to your fabric (with a couple of exceptions).
It’s important to match the colours of the fabric and thread. The thread won’t be seen if the colours are matched. However, there are a couple of exceptions to this rule where you cannot get a matching colour, it would look ‘odd’, or you are wanting to highlight the contrast; and as such a contrasting thread colour can be a great choice.For instance, contrasting colours are frequently used in gym clothing to create a distinctive look.
To highlight the seams of the garment, a light blue cloth could be matched with dark blue thread. This is a good feature, however, it’s not the best compliment for all jobs or when working with expensive or high-end clothing.
- Befriend your Seam Ripper.
As you are sewing, you are bound to make a mis-stitch or two and that’s OK. You can use your trusty seam ripper to “unpick” the stitch and you can try again. Think of it as a magnificent tool that allows you to learn from your mistakes without having to wear them. Remember, even couture designer regularly use their seam rippers! - Use Guides and Rulers when possible.
Stitching straight is not always as easy as it sounds, especially when starting out. However, with a seam guide, you can make it a lot easier. This can be anything from an attachable guide, a ruler or even some painter tape on your needle plate. By adding these guides, not only is the fabric supported as you are sewing, it helps to train your eyes to look at the fabric and not at the needle. - Practice, practice, practice
Sewing is a skill, and like all skills, it takes practice to develop and master. There are many ways that you can improve your sewing abilities, including:
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- Take Classes (both in a sewing studio and/or online)
- Join sewing groups and clubs
- Watch Sewing Youtube tutorials
- Take on projects that are just above your current skill level (it is a great way to expand your sewing horizons).